CAFE FRESCO,

We have our fingers crossed. Between Café Fresco's prominent Main Street location in East Greenwich and the classy feed it puts on, you'd think the restaurant's survival is assured. It's not that easy. A string of restaurants has inhabited this spot in recent years, and they've all folded. Two or three occupants ago, I recall coming in early and turning on my heels to leave, never to return, after being greeted by the reek of ammonia from a floor being mopped during dinner hours. But the last restaurant here was excellent, run by none other than Jimmy Kazounis, of Jimmy's at the Italo fame. Since even that didn't work out, an ancient curse on the spot cannot be ruled out. What a shame. They seem to be doing everything right at Café Fresco, they being a couple of chef/proprietors with especially righteous credentials. Jack Walrond has Grappa on his résumé and Tony Morales Al Forno, which assures us that the kitchen standards are ambitious.

Full review.